Then I start with the bicycle towards the north west, up into the mountainous border region with Laos and China. After a first flat day the mountains start seriously. They are not big here but steep, very steep. There is hardly a flat meter here, it's constantly a 10% climb or descent.

People are just increadible. Everyone who see me smiles, waves and greets me. Sure, if that is a lot of people or if I am in a long climb that can be exhausting but mostly it is just nice.

But the weather I don't like. The first 4 days I cycle at cool temperatures constantly in the mist and rain. Often I don't see more than 100m. At a pass there is a big construction site. As a result I have to cycle through the mud for a couple of times. A terribly dirty thing to do under these conditions. The mud is extremly sticky and after 100m the wheels of my bike won't turn anymore. When I finally reach the village I borrow a hose and wash down the bike and myself before looking for a room.

As soon as I am back from the mountains near Hanoi it is over with peace on the road. After what I already saw when I left town I am not really looking foreward going south from here. The country soon gets thin and there are only 2 roads going south. The main road No.1 I try to avoid but one day I have to go to a bigger town to get money and then cycle for a day on that road.

My goodness is that hectic here. Cars have horns adjusted to indian volume standards and they are far mor often used then brakes. By constantly blowing the horn everyone tries to get as much space as possible. It is noisy, dirty and dangerous. I try to get away as quickly as possible. Easier said than done. Road signs are not very reliable and it takes me 4 trials until I find back to the other south-north route where it is far more peaceful.