Best is june-september. Warm during daytime and not too cold at night.
There is a very good map (1:500'000) of Markus Hauser (www.geckomaps.com). You ca buy it in Murghab and Dushanbe.
Shopping facilities in Khorog (good), Murghab (limited) and Sary Tash (limited). Otherwise very little!
There are homestays in many little places (in private houses or yurts) organised by ACTED like Bulunkul, Alichur, Murghab, Karakul (about 5$ for accomodation, 5$ for 3 meals). Deserves to be supported! Camping always possible.
The Pamir Highway itself is mostly paved. Only just over the passes there are some unpaved parts. All sidetrips are very rough roads (sand, washboard). The climbs are usually long and steep only for the very last part. The most difficult part of the Pamir Highway is getting there at all... (see below)
Comming from Dushanbe there are two possible roads that lead to Kalaikhum:
1.) Khaburabot pass (3252m):
The first 20km after Dushanbe are a very good road. The next 140km to the foot of the pass there is only little pavement and it is a demanding up and down. The climb to the pass is at first rough but get better. The downhill on the other side to Kalaikhum is good (paved from 2000m).
2.) via Kulyab: (not cycled myself)
The road from Dushanbe to Kulyab is supposed to be quite good. From there you follow the Paynj river to Kalaikhum. This part is currently under construction.
Kalaikhum to Khorog
Here you will follow the Paynj river. Mostly paved and quite ok road. Note: the are still landmines along this route!
 - GBAO permit
To be allowed to travel on the Pamir Highway you will need a GBAO-permit. Can easily be organised by SAYOH www.sayoh.tojikiston.com or Great Game Travel www.greatgametravel.co.uk (more expensive)
Officially you have to register with OVIR no later than 3 day after your arrivel in Tadjikistan (15-20$). Possible in Dushanbe, Khorog and Murghab.
I did not do that because I had not reached Dushanbe within 3 days... The fine is said to be hefty. You also have to register with the KGB(!) in Khorog and Murghab (no charge).
Plenty of possibilities to make side trips. The road on all these side trips is always very rough.
Turumtai Kul
Road from Jelondy with loaded touring bike not cycable (steep, loose surface)
Bulunkul and Yashil Kul
22km from the turn off. Nice approach through canyon. OK road, 2 beautiful lakes, homestay in Bulunkul
Khargush pass (4344m)
23km from the turn off. Very bad road. Halfway there is a beautiful salt lake (Chokur Kul). Atop great views of the Wakhan range (Kosh-e Pamir 6320m).
Whakan valley (not cycled myself)
325km Khorog - Pamir Highway. From Khorog to Ishkashim over Khargush pass (see obove). Said to be rewarding (views into the Hindukush).
Shor Kul, Rang Kul
23km from turn off. Two nice lakes and views of Mustagh Ata (7546m) in China. Road halfway ok, halfway washboard. But mosquito plague!
Sary Moghul, Achik Tash, BC Pik Lenin (not cycled myself)
Side trip from Sary Tash. About 30km to Sary Moghul, another 30km to the BC. Good views of Pik Lenin.
I have laid out a little bicycle in the road surface (at Karakul lake). Who finds it and sends me a photo?
jens  from Chemnitz wrote on 24-01-2009 at 10:03 |
Im September 2008 hat man uns beim Grenzübertritt von Tadschikistan nach Kirgisien eine "Strafe" aufgebrummt, weil unsere OVIR-Registrierung angeblich nicht O.K. war. Eigentlich wollte man für meine Frau und mich 40 Dollar kassieren, am Ende war man mit 20 Dollar zufrieden, die ungeniert in die Hosentasche des Beamten wanderten.
Unten im Alaital kurz vor Sary Tash wollten uns Soldaten ein Wegegeld abnehmen, ließen aber dank unseres resoluten Auftretens davon ab.
Ansonsten war unsere Pamirüberquerung das Highlight unserer „Tandemtour nach Asien“ (Chemnitz – Osch, 11.000 km).
Das kleine weiße Velo ist uns aber leider nicht aufgefallen.
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Franz Dornfrom Salzburg wrote on 23-08-2008 at 10:46 |
Hallo Beat!
Komme immer wieder auf deine tolle HP, die ist wohl absolut Spitze! Ich bin zwar noch nicht weiter gekommen als auf viele Schweizer und französische Pässe und natürlich Italien, aber träumen darf man ja....
Rührend finde ich dein Velo aus weissen Steinen im Straßenbelag, bist wohl auch ein kleiner Romantiker, das finde ich schön! Hoffentlich findet dein kleines Kunstwerk einer und schickt dir ein Foto.
Schöne Grüße, Franz |
Jürgenfrom Stutensee /GER wrote on 28-12-2006 at 17:36 |
Bin begeistert!
Hast Du den Grenzübergang nach Kirgisien rüber gemeistert oder zumindest ins Auge gefasst.
Plane diese Tour und melde mich bald wieder!
Jürgen
Comment from Beat:
Hallo Jürgen
Der Übergang von Karakul nach Sary Tash in Kirgistan ist problemlos machbar!
Gruss
Beat |
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