What an october! Beautiful autumn weather and still good conditions in the alps.

This weekend we will pay a visit to the Glarus alps. With the cable car we get from Linthal to Chalchtritt and through a long tunnel to the Limmerensee where we just get above the sea of fog. Following a interesting trail we walk along the lake and over a well secured step where we reach a plateau. Here we make a bivy for the night with a great wiew into the starry sky.

Next day we walk up the Limmerenfirn. The condition on the north ridge are very good and so we climb over the Eisnase (icy nose) to the summit ridge. Unfortunately the summit of Bifertenstock is mostly in clouds and we only get a short glimpse to the Tödi next to us.

It was a beautiful tour even without much of a view.

Finally the weather gets better after a rainy august and we can start for our week in the mountains. 'A ridge tour for abyss lovers' I read from the guide book on the way to the Wallis.

On saturday we go to Ferpècle at the end of the Val d' Hérens. There we start towards the bivouac at the Col de la Dent Blanche. This approach is already a big tour itself. The bivy lies at 3500m right at the foot of the impressive noth face of the Dent Blanche.

Next morning we climb over the SW ridge to the Grand Cornier. The ridge is exposed as promised. But the rock is good and the conditions perfect. After 4 hrs we reach the summit. Mc already can't hear the word 'Genarme' anymore... But on the way down over the NW ridge there are again plenty to climb over.

The way over the Moiry glacier to the Moiry hut is still long and we are happy we can stay here for the night and don't have to go down tonight.

To get back to the car we almost need all of the following day!

The view from the valley already showed what it was going to be like: There is was, the mighty Bietschhorn covered with lots snow. The snow line clearly below the Bietschhorn hut...

The Bietschhorn hut is a real treasure and certainly not overrun: in the guestbook I can still find the entry of my last visit (8 years ago!).

Next morning we dig through the deep snow to the Schaftsberg. While heading towards the west ridge the surrounding mountains appear out of the dark of the night beeing hit by the first rays of the sunlight. Every time again a fantastic spectacle which itself is already worth every tour. Until the warming sun reaches us, we all get our share of cold fingers while following the west ridge.

Naturally we make slow progress having to fight with that much of snow. When we need a whole hour for the last 100 vertical meters, we realise that we won't make it to the summit anymore and turn back.

A tour without a summit but one that we enjoyed nevertheless with this unusal conditions.

Lots of rain but still a great weekend. It was fun to be together with the whole Gerutti-family! Thanks again everyone!