Informations

Approach

By bus from La Paz to Sorata. In Sorata you can charter a LandCruiser for the 2 hours drive over Paso Chu Chu to Ancoma (approx. 45$).

Alternatively you can walk from Sorataover Lakathiya and Paso Huila Khota in 2 days to the base camp Aguas Calientes.

Porters and mules

Porters can be hired in Sorata (approx. 12$ per day). It should be possible to hire mules for the walk to the basecamp in Ancoma. But I would not count on that. There were none available when we were there.

Base camp Aguas Calientes

3h; 800m climb

If you start just above Ancoma on the valley floor along the river you will have to cross it later to the left side (geographically). Follow the valley that turns west. But the trails is often difficult to find here and you have to find a way through the bushes. As soon as you leave the bushes behind you it is easier to follow the path.

You better start on the trail, that leaves the road to Acoma a couple of switchbanks higher up (exactly 100m higher than the valley floor), see GPS waypoint 601. This good trail follows the valley on the (geographically) left hillside, about 100m above the vally floor. Follow the valley that turns west.

The base camp at Aguas Calientes lies at 4600m next to a creek. But the is no warm water, as the name might suggest...

High camp

6-7h; 750m climb

From base camp walk up on the other side of the valley over a rocky shoulder (SE). The path is easy to find here because there are a lot of cairns that mark it. After a short descent Illampu summit comes into view again. Follow a long rocky slope always directly towards the summit. At about 5000m there is a short descent before you foloow a narrow band to reach the moraine.

Walk up the moraine (at 5080m there is another camp with water on the right) and go as late as possible on the glacier. On the glacier you have to go round some huge crevasses, better stay on the right. You will reach a high plateaux at 5600m - highcamp. You have to melt water.

Summit by south west ridge

6-7h; 750m climb

From high camp directly climb the 300m high, 60° steep headwall. Atop you will reach a narrow and exposed ridge. Follow it to the left. It will soon become broader and you can follow it all the way to the summit. The last meters are a bit steeper again.

Difficulty

AD+, max. 60°

Maps and guidebooks

The best map for this region is the one of the German Alpen Verein: DAV Cordillera Real Nord (Illampu).
Yossi Brains "Bolivia a climbing guide" can be recommended.
Alain Mesilis ¨The Andes of Bolivia¨ lists a lot of (difficult) routes, but here it is not very exact.