The government of Nepal has declared 18 peaks as 'Trekking Peaks'. which can be climbed with little bureaucratic paperwork. For those above 6000m you need a 'Climbing Permit', which costs 300$. It is valid for up to 10 persons.
The tour is almost only possible with porters, because you have to carry everything for at least 10 days with you. Getting the permit is easiest done by a trekking agency. They also organise the porters and Sherpa Sirdar.
The difficulty is to know, whether you get a good Sirdar (which act as mountain guide). Ours had no mountain experience (probably had never been to Mera peak before), was an alcoholic and absolute unreliable.
Best is, if you find a good agency be word-of-mouth advertising. We can only disadvise one: Euro Treks & Expedition in Thamel!
The climbing is technically very easy. But you should have mountain experience in any case! On of the major problems is acclimatisation with the altitude. The walk to the base camp goes through mostly unihabited valleys. There are no lodges or teahouses.
A lot has been written about that subject. Above 3000m it is recommende not to climb more than 500m a day (It is importend where you spend the night) 10 Days for this tour is the lowest limit! 2 extra days (at base camp) would be good. At the hight camp (5800m), sleeping is not very well possible. An alternative would be a camp at Mera La (5400m) and then the next day direct to the peak.
The following equipment you need:
- Wind resisting tent
- Good sleeping bag (for as cold as -15°C), matresse
- Crampons, Ice axe, rope (depending on the conditions of the glacier)
- Shoes: Plastic boots are not realy necessairy but definitly less practical at the walk in...
- Stove, which will work at the high camp (5800m). Don't use the 'Cerosin' that is widly sold in Nepal for stoves, but rather real petrol ( or gas)
- warm cloth (jacket,gloves, cap...)
Bill O'Connor's 'The Trekking Peaks of Nepal' is best. All routes to all 18 'Trekking Peaks' are described. It is available in Kathmandu.
The best map is probably the 'Schneider Karte' of the 'Arbeitsgemeinschaft für vergleichende Höhenforschung'. For Mera Peak, you need sheet 'Shorong / Hinku' (1:50'000). Also available in Kathmandu.
in Kathmandu erhältlich.
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