The northeastern most province of India. Some of the best India has to offer. Incredible transition from the Tibetian highland to southeast Asia. Dense jungle and countless tribes (speaking over 50 different dialects).
You need a permit to travel in Arunachal Pradesh. Minimal group size: two. But once you have the permit there is no problem traveling on your own. So you can simply buy two permits and go on your own.
The permit is easiest obtained from a tour operator. But not all are very keen on organizing one for you. The permit costs 50$ per person, plus about 50$ for the tour operator. I got my permit directly in Delhi at the Arunachal Pradesh office (Arunachal Bhagwan, Kautilya Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi-110021). That way I did not have to pay the 50$ for a tour operator. But they said it was exceptional.
Roads are generally narrow with countless curves. The surface varies from good to very rough tracks. Mostly very little traffic. Details see the individual routes. After rain some of the roads become very muddy.
There is a new road along the border to Bhutan. Very nice and it saves you quite some dobble distance on the way to Tawang. Currently a new "Trans Arunachal Highway" is under construction. That means, a lot has changed since I rode the route. In 2017 about half of that was finished. The map and GPS files are the current state of 2017.
Surprisingly almost every little place has a Gouvernement Resthouse oder eine Tourist Lodge. They are usually very basic. Camping is hardly needed and would often be difficult in this dense jungle.
"Lots of the Inspection Bungalows / governement Resthouses have decayed or are out of order. Others are simply too epensive now. Because of that we often camped at schools or missions / churches."
Banks with ATM can be found in all bigger places. Internet cafes are rare and the connections are some of the worst I have met anywhere!
Small shops can be found in all places but their selection is simple. Restaurants are not as frequent as in the rest of India.
Tezpur - Bomdila - Dirang - Tawang (340km, 7725m climbing) (see new road in GPS file)
The Tawang valley's scenery and culture is very similar to Tibet/Bhutan. In Tawang there is one of the biggest buddhist monasteries and the Dalai Lama passed here on his way out of Tibet.
The ride goes over several high passes. Highlight is the 4176m high Se La. Most of the climbs are quite nice and the road is good. As of 2017 the road is now finished and paved all the way. All along the road there is a lot of army with countless camps.
Nechi Phu - Seppa - Sagalee - Doimukh (300km, 4270m climbing)
A fantastic route. One big adventure from the very first to the last kilometer. The very little, narrow road goes right through a dense jungle. At some time this road was paved but there is not much left of that. It is often bumpy and muddy after rain but never too bad and the road always gets better again. Very little traffic.
Doimukh - Ziro - Daporijo - Aalo - Pasighat (500km, 9100m climbing)
Many interesting villages that consist only of bamboo long huts. Especially in the Ziro Valley there is an multitude of different tribes all with their own language and culture. The climbs are shorter but many. The road is mostly good with some rough parts. The last section before Pasighat is very bad.